Krakauer was there on the mountain on the day and as a journalist, gives a well researched and a personal account of the day, and of guided expeditions on Everest. Before the book (and the movie), I had no clue that climbing Everest was mostly about having money in the bank and being relatively fit. It was (and still is) the Sherpas that do the work - fixing ropes, ladders, carrying luggage and even preparing meals for clients! I dare say my respect for Everest-ers of the '90s and thereafter, has diminished significantly.
Read the book to understand Everest, how the extreme cold and lack of Oxygen can make one shockingly nonchalant in the face of death, but mostly to remove any Everest climbing "heroes" you might have placed on pedestals.
Highly recommended.
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